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Starting Some Stools

For a long time I have wanted to make a couple of Bowback Stools, as produced by Thomas Moser’s company in the USA:

https://www.thosmoser.com/product/bowback-stool/

I have previously made a Windsor Chair with James Mursell at the Windsor Workshop: https://thewindsorworkshop.co.uk

Here it is with the desk I made for Sylvia:

We recently met James Mursell at a craft show, and he kindly agreed to help me make a couple of Bowback Stools on one of his 5 day Two Stool Making courses, and we have arranged a course in the spring.

Because I will be making a different stool than the rest of the group, I decided to do some preparatory work.

Firstly. I purchased a couple of Tom Moser’s book cheaply from on-line sites: “Thos. Moser’s Measured Shop Drawings” and “Thos. Moser’s Windsor Chairmaking.” From these I have seen able to obtain sufficient design details to reproduce the stool. The second of these has 1:5 scale drawings of the seat and the bow, and I have had these enlarged to full size at a local printers.

I was hoping to get permission from the Thos Moser company for me to include here a couple of photos of the drawings in these books, but have not had a reply. I heard last week that, sadly, Tom Moser died on 5th March, aged 90. He leaves a great legacy of fine furniture.

The plans shows the angles for rake (forward and backwards angulation) and the splay (sideways angulation) of the legs and spindles. From these two angles I have used Peter Galbert’s layout method for converting the compound angles into the sightlines and their angles for drilling the holes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i3Mnz8VTYM

As the leg of a stool is angled from a vertical position, the distance it moves across the floor gets greater per degree of angulation. It’s not simply a matter of a fixed distance per degree of angulation, as can be seen on the Taytools Bevel Setting Gauge” below. Peter Galbert’s technique and this bevel setting gauge makes the process very straightforward.

Having marked out the sightlines on the drawing, I needed to produce a template to create the shape of the seat.

The seat drawing is not perfectly symmetrical, so I make a template of one half (using some stiff clear plastic sheet I obtained for templating parts of the dinghy I’m slowly building). By transferring the details of one half of the drawing, I was able to make the shape perfectly symmetrical by simply flipping the template over to do the other side.

The next step is to define the shape and size of the bow. I made a drilling Jig to drill the correct angle and then fitted a length of 4mm diameter mild steel rod.

I then drilled the holes for the spindles and adjusted the bow to fit.

Using some card, I was able to take the shape of the bow and produce the former for the bow.

The template was not symmetrical so I chose one half and marked the wood accordingly, having adjusted the line to take account of the thickness of the bow. Using a batten, I faired the curve and extended the bottom of the line to provide some spare length.

With on a pine board marked up ready to make a prototype seat, and the ‘former’ ready to make the bow, I moved on to preparing the wood for the two sets of components

James would normally use ash for the stool parts, except for the seat; with ash, tulip wood, sapele frequently chosen for the seat.

I would like to use walnut for the stool’s seat, and for the bow – if you look at the Thos. Moser website, using the hyperlink above, I think you will appreciate why.

Unlike ash, walnut does not steam well, so I have decided to laminate the bow. If I am unsuccessful, we will at least have the ‘Former’ to steam bend some ash on day 1 of the course!

The dimension given for the bow is 27mm. I made my laminate strips about 2-3mm thick and 40mm wide to allow for any mismatch when glued up. My attempt to laminate the bow in a single step failed – three of the eight strips broke at the same place, where there was a wave in the grain. As a result, I had to glue each laminate strip in turn! Here is one of the set ups with a few strips in place:

And here is one of the two completed laminations:

After cutting the laminate off the former on the bandsaw. I planed the width and thickness down to the required 27mm. Using the 7:10:7 proportion rule I marked out the lines on each of the four faces to which I needed to plane off the corners (with a spokeshave) and make it eight sided. From there it was a fairly simple but careful task to shave off the resulting smaller corners and round off the bow.

Here are the bows:

I did cheat a little with the seat blanks – with my friend Matthew’s help and his surface planer we “jointed” the pieces to make the seat blanks. The stock I had bought was not quite wide enough to make the seats in one piece.

Three more steps are required before I’m all set for our Windsor Workshop trip: I shall transfer the shape, the hole positions and the sight lines for drilling to the two blanks, like the prototype above; fit walnut dowels into the ends of the bows make the “loose tenon”s” that will fit into the seat; and I need to make a jig to help create the 35o bevel on the ends of the bow.

Ah well, “back to the bunker!”

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An update on planking and other projects

I am surprised at just how long it is since my last post … in September ’23; less so that I have not made as much progress on Mischief as I would have liked. As usual, other projects the usual fits and starts and “perfection being the enemy of good” are to blame! Anyway, at last, here is an update.

It is several months since I finished fitting the second set of planks:

At last, after various distractions, family events, sundry projects and cataract surgery, Sylvia and I finished roving the third pair of planks this morning. I must say it’s a lot easier to dedicate time to the boat when the days are longer and there’s more natural light.

It is important to get the copper nails in a straight line and perpendicular to the keel/centre-line of the boat. We were taught to use a flexible batten of 3mm plywood, which works fine in the centre of the boat but it is tricky and less reliable at the forrard sections. I had used a laser level and mini-tripod inside the bottom of the boat, but it was very difficult and time-consuming to get the laser lines correct for each nail in turn. Eventually, I struck upon the idea of putting the laser level on a perspex board which, being transparent and resting level on the mould fixing struts, made the job a lot easier and quicker:

Other projects that I have done since my last post include a knife-making course with our son, James; spoon carving with our grandson, Noah; wood-turning some pepper mills; a toy box for our latest grandchild, Jude; a traditional sailmaking course at the Boat Building Academy in Lyme Regis; installing diesel heaters in the Workshop and garage; and making a footrest and footstool for Sylvia to use in Millie, our new motorhome.

I will get the rub rails fitted to the third planks, and then I can start on the fourth set of planks! And I hope to be able to report further significant progress a lot quicker next time!

Posted on by stuartmorgan

Planking drill guide

At college, when doing clinker planking, we drilled the holes for the roved nails “by eye.” Mostly, we were fairly close or on target but, unless you have a lot of experience, it is difficult to be accurate.

Getting the copper roves running up the hull, in straight lines, at right ankles to the keel, and equally set in from the plank edges is the goal.

To try and achieve that goal, I have made a drill guide using two metal guides, and a couple of short metal rods. One of the arms is free to move up and down the rods.

Siting the nail on the target point on the inside of the boat, then angling the jig, so that the drill bit is on the line marking the midpoint of the plank below, I can hit the nail spot on 90% of the time, and if I’m “out,” it’s within 1-1.5 mm.

Although I can do this single handed, it is even easier with a helper ensuring that the top nail doesn’t drift from the target point above.

The overlap between planks in a clinker built boat is called the land. The copper nail should pass from the mid point of the land on the outside of the lower edge of the plank to the midpoint of the land on the inside of the lower plank – as shown below.

So here’s my simple jig:

Yes, there is a little “play,” but it give me much better results than just judging it by eye.

And here’s the result:

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Last Post

Hard to believe, but it is five years since I started this blog, with its heading ‘From GP to novice boat builder.”

Well, I’m still a GP, helping out at our local surgery two mornings a week. What started out with me offering to assist following the sudden loss of the Senior Partner, and doing my bit in Covid, has become well established and part of my normal week. I enjoy the clinical work and the patients, and I will miss it when the Practice decides it no longer needs me, or I finally decide to let medicine go.

As for the novice boat builder, I am very much a novice still, but I am slowly building my first boat, and have done many woodworking projects using the skills I learnt at IBTC Portsmouth.

The cost of the blog domain and website facility is not that great, but the arrival of an invoice in my email in-tray, has prompted me to pull stumps and leave the blog. Instead, I shall take advantage of the no fee services of Instagram, and I hope that those following me here will take a look at my progress there.

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Sail Making in Lyme Regis

Once again, we were back in Lyme Regis in late July, staying in a cottage by the River Lym and its Mill Race. This time, for me to do a short course in sail making the Boat Building Academy, and to make the sail for my clinker dinghy project, Mischief.

Nearby Bere, with its beach huts, and boats – it still has an active Lugger fleet that race regularly.

Of course, we made the most of the local restaurants in Lyme Regis, and our visit coincided with the annual Morris Dance Festival. No, not tempted to join a local group!

But the main event was the sail making course. There were six of us (one had to leave early) and we made three sails over the five days. Mark was an excellent teacher and the sewing machine was only a little temperamental!

My sail is made of Clipper Canvas, which is a polyester cloth, but has a soft “handle” and suits traditional boats. Available in cream or tan, I chose tan. The panels are cut and sewn together with one of the adjoining edges straight and the other curved, so as to create an aerofoil shape in the sail. The corners have reinforcing patches, there is a set of reefing eyes, and a leech rope … for fine tuning!

A superb course, with a super sail made, and a lovely time in Lyme Regis. Here are some more photos from our time there:

Lastly, a caption competition (and, no, they are not having a builder’s pee):

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Sail Caledonia – a Tale of Two Telas

It was in September last year, that Paul Nobbs (Nobby) commented on my post “Readying Buccaneer.” A fellow Tela-owner, he told me that he had sailed his boat, Kingfisher, through the Great Glen in the Sail Caledonia Raid event. Looking it up, I decided it would be great fun to take part in the 2023 (20th anniversary) event.

I set to, to prepare Buccaneer for her trip to Scotland, getting sails cleaned, her outboard serviced, giving her “a tickle” of varnish, fresh antifouling, and a new bowsprit. Flares, and other safety equipment were purchased, along with plentiful supplies of snacks and some items to dress the boat – of which more later.

My very good friend, Craig, kindly agreed to join me, which was all the more generous of him, given that he had a couple of major family events coming up just after the end of our adventure. Many thanks are owed to his wife, Mandy-Jane, for loaning him at this particular time.

With launch in Fort William being set for Saturday 27th May, we left on the preceding Thursday, stopping overnight near Penrith, and completing our journey on Friday afternoon. We were able to park the boat in the Lochaber yacht club and get her rigged for the morrow.

A fleet of 14 boats were launched by early Saturday afternoon and, after a quick briefing, we joined our moored-up boats for the first race in Loch Linnhe. Unfortunately, one of our shrouds had come adrift, which took an age to fix, and we started at the back of the fleet. However, Buccaneer performed well, and we were not the last to cross the finishing line.

We entered Corpach Basin via its sea lock, and moored up in the basin for the night. That evening’s BBQ at the local rugby club was overlooked by Ben Nevis

On Sunday morning, while Craig and fellow crew members took cars and trailers to our finishing point outside of Inverness, we ascended the Corpach Locks, and then a second flight of locks, called Neptune’s Staircase. Here we were joined by our drivers, and locked through to Gairlochy Top – a beautiful spot:

Craig and I contributed a couple of shanties to the evening’s entertainments – we had been practicing for months!

With a flat calm on Monday morning, we had to row the 10km from Gairlochy to Laggan. Thankfully, in the afternoon, a light breeze developed and we had a row/sail race in the afternoon on Cean Loch. The Raid had now been joined by the very well-known maritime photographer Kathy Mansfield. She buzzed around in one of the rescue boats taking some super photos of the boats, not least of Buccaneer and her sister Tela, Kingfisher – Kathy has a soft spot for the Tela and has recently had published an article on Nobby’s Tela, Kingfisher in Water Craft magazine.

Monday night was spent at Laggan Locks, from where we motored on Tuesday morning, down Laggan Avenue to Loch Oich.

A quick triangular course race saw us competing well with Kingfisher, and Kathy taking some photos of us doing so. Her photos can be seen on the Sail Caledonia Facebook page (albeit low resolution and watermarked).

There was then a 2 mile rowing race to the Aberhalder bridge.

We dressed the boats as we locked up the Fort Augustus Locks. At the the final lock, the lock keepers judged the “Best Dressed Boat” competition.

We had set Jolly Roger bunting on the standing rigging, a large Jolly Roger flag on the mast, a parrot on the end of the boom and bandanas on our heads. And …

In Fort Augustus we had a super dinner with Nobby and Bee at the Boathouse restaurant, which is situated at the head of Loch Ness.

The passage of Loch Ness was completed over Wednesday and Thursday. The Force 3-4 headwinds made for great sailing. The two Telas were well-matched, and it was great to be pitting ourselves against, and sailing in company with, Nobby and Bee in Kingfisher.

We had traversed the mighty Loch Ness, and the evenings celebrations in Dongarroch included a Haggis, Neeps and Tatties supper and a folk music band, who kindly allowed Craig and I to do a few of our numbers.

Friday, was our last day, and we motored to the Tomnahurich swing bridges, with one of the French boats rafted alongside.

The first of the two adjacent swing bridges’ motors was not working properly, and had to be opened manually. Thankfully, we did not need to lower our masts! Then up our last flight of locks at Inverness to the sea lock, for the final race across the Beauly Firth to the slipway at North Kessock. Here we retrieved the boats – the crews had brought the trailers round earlier in the day.

We had travelled coast to coast. In the sea lock, Buccaneer was still sporting her large Jolly Roger flag. Beyond the sea lock stands the Kessock Bridge which separates the Beauly Firth and the Moray Firth.

That evening, we returned to Dongarroch and the Ros Crana barge, which had been our accommodation, and mother ship. Sylvia, who had flown up to Inverness on Wednesday, joined us for the celebrations: a buffet supper and ceilidh to round off the holiday.

Sadly, the event is not going to be run again – at least not in its current form, which makes me all the more grateful to Nobby for telling me about it, and glad to have been able to go.

Here are a few more photographic memories of a fantastic trip:

Nobby and Bee in Kingfisher:

Other participants:

The rescue boats, Ros Crana, and support team:

The in-house musician, Mark, playing the bagpipes as we finished the races or passed through the locks, and the other musical interludes:

Two Telas racing:

And a great time with my good friend, Craig.

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Vice Refurbs.

I was tidying up in Docs Den when there was a knock on the workshop door. My good friend Craig’s face appeared, and he bravely entered, politely not commenting on the confusion and chaos within.


“That’s a nice vice” he said, pointing to my Dad’s old engineer’s vice, made in Australia by Dawn, and brought to England when my Mother imported him in 1962. “I could do with a vice like that – I’ve only got a woodworking vice on my bench.”

Dad’s vice, refurbished in 2018.

I had also refurbished a small Record No.1 vice in 2020, for one of the previous IBTC graduates, an ideal size for her to use on her boat. It was one that I had happened to have just hanging around:

Sally’s vice – refurb number 2!

It was early December, and having been somewhat at a loss as to what to give Craig for Christmas, I now had more than the germ of an idea for a suitable gift!

I did some internet research. There are loads of cheap Chinese imports to choose from, but the quality is not great. Ebay had some pricey vintage vices, but none that looked that good. Suddenly, I remembered that I had a rusty old Record No.2 vice, tucked out of the way on the floor of the garage, just one of those things one can’t throw away, because they are bound to come in useful one day. I seem to have a lot of such things!

Digging out the vice from the garage, I found that it was indeed very rusty. I considered using Evaporust on it, but time was short.

I had previously toyed with the idea of de-rusting old tools using electrolysis. So, after some more internet research, I set to and made an electrolysis tank, using pieces of rebar as the sacrificial cathode. With a new fuse in its plug, the car battery charger I bought in my late teens for my first car was back in action, after over 40 years! With some washing soda added to the water in the bucket/tank, we were off. It took three days of electrolysis to clean off the rust, but it did a great job, with just enough time remaining for me to paint and reassemble the vice in time for a pre-Christmas brunch with our friends.

Before.
Tank set up.
Cooking nicely (outdoors because hydrogen is released).
The finished article: a vintage vice that is probably well over 50 years old, with quality to match!

I think that has cleared my stock of excess/unused engineer vices, but I have a couple of woodworking vices ready for refurbishment when needed, AND an electrolysis tank to boot. Perhaps I should set up in business!!

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Garboards Fitted and Fixed.

It has taken me a long time to prepare the garboard planks for my dinghy build. Paradoxically, these first planks are the hardest to fit. Various small projects and other distractions have drawn things out far longer than I care to say. However, I did manage to get the required “fag paper fit.” Of course, the second side took half the time of the first!

I have been fortunate to have help from a couple of friends, Matthew and Richard (of Grumpy Shed Productions fame) to pre-drill and then fit the planks.

I have used Arbokol 1000 polysulphide as a bedding compound, copper roved nails through the plank and hog, and silicon bronze gripfast nails to fit the plank to the apron, stem and transom edge.

I am somewhat disappointed that there is a 1mm gap between the hood end of the planks and the stem but, overall, it has gone as well as I dared to hope.

I have a few projects to get done for Christmas, but hope to increase the planking pace in the New Year!